Monday, May 30, 2011

Day 22nd/23rd - 18th/19th April

Coral Sand dunes


I woke up with a single agenda in my head - throw away the stupid stove! But V disagreed. He reminded me that it would refund our $53 if we returned it (including the taxes that we paid), and I agreed to tolerate it's presence till the sight of the next Walmart.

No morning coffee, no breakfast, and hence a bad start of the day for both of us.

Stopped by a Subway for breakfast as soon as we exited Bryce - less than 2 miles :)

Slow ride, nothing eventful, till we reached the Sand Dunes. It wasn't much of a ride, 85 miles or so, and V wanted to move on after we have a look at the sand dunes. I, on the other hand, wanted to stop for the day, and was in no mood for the ride (the bad start of the day, remember?) It is amazing to know how much difference one (ok, two) cup of coffee can make. 

 The disagreement was sorted and middle ground reached, like it always is, between the two of us. Ending up in an argument, me refusing to move an inch, announcing that he could go alone if he wanted to, and V agreeing to stay after making a lot of faces. And of course, not talking to each other for the next 15 minutes. 

We managed to reach the registration desk just in time to get the last available tent site (the rush owing to the start of spring holidays for schools), and V was disappointed. As soon as we moved past the entrance (and the registration desk), I realized that maybe V was right. (I so hate to admit it when I am wrong). 

We were so out of place and people did give us funny glances. Everyone, I mean EVERYONE, was either riding an OHV or had one (or more) parked in their campsites. And here we were, in a Honda ST1300, with luggage mounted on the bike, camping at the Sand Dunes!!!! 

I was sure they were wondering what were we planning to do. And it would be fun to disappoint them :D
What the hell, might as well enjoy. We tried walking around, but it was too hot and very difficult to walk around in the sand. So we sat at the Pavilion, looking at others riding their OHVs and clicking some snaps for a while. For now, this was the best we could do. It was late afternoon and we hadn't had lunch, so it was only fair that we exit the sand dunes, and save ourselves some misery, at least for a while. 

Tommy said that the nearst restaurant was in Kanab, around 23 miles. We had enough time at hand, and we did make it to Kanab by around 4 pm. Too late for lunch by local standards, and too early for dinner.... so no food <sad face>. So much for driving 23 miles!

I came up with a brilliant idea that if we go to a supermarket, we could get some food in their 'deli' section. (Smart me :d), so I dragged V to 'Honey Supermarket'. Well, no deli section, no food, and on-the-verge-of-getting-angry hungry V. I had to salvage the situation.  

"Let's go back, I can cook something for you"
I bit my tongue as soon as I said that. No stove, remember!!! 
"Ok, let's buy a camper's stove from here. Then I can cook you a good meal" just saved .
"hmmm"

So we ended up buying another camper's stove and a propane bottle, and some quick-fix meals that I could cook easily. The only problem now was to figure out how to pack up! 

Reached the campground when it was getting dark. Stopped by the roadside to click some pictures of the sunset. 

Fixed up a quick dinner, fed him well and put him to bed (which is the best thing to do when he is tired and hungry). We made it an early night, as V wanted to leave early morning, heading to the Grand Canyon. I did not dare argue, so I quitely agreed. We left our luggage on the picnic table, half unpacked, half messy, hoping to take care of it in the morning. 

I woke up at around 3 am to the sound of tip-tap on the tent. It took me a while to realize what was happening.   
"F%$k baby, it's raining" I shook V. 
"Ok, good" he was fast asleep. 
"What good? Wake up. We have a lot of luggage outside"
"Anything that the rain can ruin? Think and tell me names" and he turned over and slept. 
"I am not playing puzzle games with you right now. GET UP and let's get some stuff in the tent" 
"Too late. It's probably alerady all wet. Go back to sleep. We'll see what to do in the morning" V wouldn't budge at all. Lazy bum. 
"OK fine. Suits me." there was no way I was stepping out of the tent alone at that hour! (I doubt if I would step out even with V in that darkness) 

This was the 1st time that we had left our stuff outside so messily, and this was the time that it rained all night! 
We woke up at 8 in the morning to realize that there was no way we could leave without drying up our stuff, including our helmets which were soaked to the bone. Spent the next 4 hours laying everything down in the sun and waiting. 

By the time we finally managed to  leave, it was 1 pm. Too late. We only hoped that we would make to the Grand canyon in time. 

Thursday, May 26, 2011

Day 21st, 22nd - 17th, 18th April

Bryce National Park

The day started with packing as usual, (for V) and planning a quick breakfast (for me). Why do I bother cooking and waste time 1st thing in the morning on making a breakfast, you ask? Well, coz V is a strange man! He gets angry when he is hungry. He never says he is, though (I doubt if he realizes himself), but he sure does get angry. SO ... I prefer to have him well-fed before we hit the road :D. (Also coz I need my morning coffee, without which I refuse to board the bike :D)

The "map & guide" paper (which I preferred to call the newspaper, much to V's amuzement)  that we had received at the time of the entry said that there was a tunnel connecting Zion to Bryce and in my limited knowlodge of the geography of the land, this was the only way to reach Bryce. I read it over and over again, and there was one line that I kept getting stuck at - "vehicles requiring traffic control through the tunnel will need to pay a $15 fee in addition to the park entry fee". Now this was funny!

"We will have to pay $15 to cross the tunnel" I told V
"Why?"
"Coz it says so! Listen..." and I read it out to V aloud
 "This can't be true" he just wouldn't believe me
"But it's written here. I swear. You don't believe me?? .. have a look" and I handed it over to him
He glanced through the paper, and then looked up, "Come on now... really... this is simple English"
"Yeah, so?"
"What school did you go to?" now he was acting smart!
"What the hell, I just read to you what was in the paper!"
"Well, you forgot to read just one paragraph, right on top of what you have been reading"

And boy, he was right! What I had missed reading was fairly important. Vehicles OVER 25 feet would require traffic control through the tunnel, as the tunnel was built long ago (1920, I think, but i could be wrong) and they hadn't planned for such big vehicles then!

"Very funny" I never like to make a fool of myself (which I do more than often, though)
"No. Serious. What school did you go to?" with V you always a hard time telling when he is joking and when he is not.
"f%$k off"
"Ok, cool. Let's get in the tent"
"F%^K OFF"

That was an eventful start to the morning, and we did manage to cross the tunnel without paying anything extra.
"Oh, we forgot to pay them"
'Yeah, right smartarse. I was wrong. Happy now"
I was sure I could see him grinning though the helmet.

The tunnel was longer than I had expected and due credit to them, they did a fabulous job in 1920. I wonder what equipments they had at the time, but cutting through a solid rock mountain and carve out a tunnel that long must have been hell of a job.
The tunnel was dark (poor lighting) and I did try to click a few pictures but they turned out to be a waste.



As soon as we crossed the tunnel, the landscape seemed to have changed drastically! WOW! The mountains had a different shape all together, and the roks were flaky. I wonder HOW they eneded up like that!
The ride was beautiful! I was dying to tell V that he should stop for a picture, but I wasn't talking to him :-S ... What the hell, this landscape was too beautiful to be wasted. So, I poked him on his shoulder and asked him to stop.

He immediately took to clicking pictures. This is one thing I love about him. He will never hold a fight against me (very unlike me) and immediately forgets that we ever had a fight (poor memory but always works to my advantage *evil grin*).


"You think these mountains can fall off?"
"SHUT UP"


One milestone achieved on the way - our trip meter touched 2000 miles <Happy grin> BUT, we realized that it resets to zero at 2000 <Sad face>

The wind was getting cooler, and I had already started complaining of the cold (and NO, contrary to what V thinks, I DO NOT complain all the time). We stopped by a rest area, so that I could put on some warm clothes. 

A very pleasnt looking gentleman walked up to us, "Nice bike"
"Thanks" nothing pleases V more than someone appreciating his bike
"Hot day, huh?"
<Straight face> I didn't think I was in a postion to react to THAT comment!

"Where you headed to?" friendly-man asked.
"Bryce"
"Oh Boy! I was there 3 days ago, and it was 5 below zero..... Celcius. You understand Celcius?"
<We sure do!AND it's time to take a U-turn and run for our lives!>

We thanked the good man for the news, and since V refused to turn back, we continued to Bryce. THIS is how the other side of the road looked. I was surprised I hadn't noticed it earlier!  




Reached Bryce. Phew. And yes, it was cold. Though not below zero. It was a sunny day <Thank You God>.




This is what the camp-site looked like. AND they didn't have hot water in the restrooms .. brrrr.... 

Finding a site was easy, there were many people around anyways. The stove (replaced at Walmart earlier), did not work again, and so no dinner. Snuggled into bed cold and hungry, hoping that the morning would be better.  

The bright shining sun was a beautiful start to the next day, but the stove didn't think so. No morning coffee as well, and a grumpy me. Out of sheer desperation, I walked up to a woman crossing by, and asked her if she knew how to operate a camper's stove. She said that she didn't but he husband did, and told me to come over to her site with the stove. <Thank you>
So V and I walked up to their site with the stupid stove in our hand, feeling foolish, but needy. 

Marc (the husband) was an experience camper, and must have had a magic touch, coz he managed to get the stove working the 1st time he tried it! I could have sworn to God that we were doing everything EXACTLY as he did it, but ... We thanked him and carried the stove back to our site, still lighted. I couldn't risk extingushing the flame. I did get my coffee and V got a good breakfast. 

The rest of the morning and early afternoon was spent riding around the park, going to various elevation points and clicking pictures. 

The 'Hoodoos', as they call them, are something that I believe everyone should see. It reinforces your belief in the super power who has architected the world. This looked like an old city that has been excavated from the ruins. I did learn from the reading materials, that the Hoodoos get their shape from erosion by ice, but it is difficult to bvelieve that someone didn't hadcarve them. And they get their name from the word "Woodoo" as they seem to cast a spell on everyone who visits them. TRUE!  


I had thought that Zion was the best, and now I stood corrected. This was something else. 



We would have loved to go for a trail down these rock, but this wasn't the time. Most of the trailheads looked like this and it was best avoided at the moment.

Lunch was at Bryce Lodge, a very elegant looking little restaurant, with a very fine old gentleman waiting our table. BUT, the menu did not have ANYTHING vegetarian. <Sad face>
Ended up going for the buffet as it would at least give me access to the salad bar. mmm... the food was lovely, and so was the ambiance. I just LOVED the place and the people. 
I noticed that most of the employees here were 50+. I love the way the senior citizens are involved in the workforce and still active and live their lives to the fullest (something that we don't get to see in India).   


OK, enough of the romantic lunch! Time for some reality check chores. LAUNDRY! 
Yeah, so we did end up spending rest of the afternoon at the general store of the park - taking paid showers and doing the laundry. Not to mention picking up beer for the evening :)and the most important thing - firewood - to cook dinner.
The evening was spent cooking on fire, something that I loved doing, especially as I got to be close to the fire in that cold, and could sip on chilled beer :D

We loved the place and wanted to extend the stay to another day, BUT a casual chat with Marc relevaled that the weather forecast said SNOW for the next night, and we thought it was best to get out of here before it got cold(er). Marc also mentioned the "Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park", and we immediately decided that this was our next stop. We hadn't even heard of this state park or planned for it, but then this entire trip was about doing what we wanted to do WITHOUT having to think or plan too much . 




Wednesday, May 18, 2011

P.S. to the last post - On way to Zion

Forgot to mention a very important event that happened on our way to Zion - V was pulled over by a cop for speeding! The sequence of events is as under:


1. V is riding at 55 mph, when we notice a sign that says "Reduced speed ahead".
2. V slows down to 45 mph.
3. Slows down further. I shout from the back, "what happened?"
4. V replies, "there is an idiot in front of me, who wouldn't let me pass", and V moves closer to the car.
5. The 'idiot' in front of us moves to the left lane and sticks a hand out of the drivers window.
6. V assumes that this is a pass signal and overtakes and even murmurs a thank you!
7. The 'idiot' starts flashing the lights on top of his car, and chasing us.

OK! The 'idiot' was a cop, and suddenly we felt like 'bigger idiots' not noticing that it was a cop car!

We pulled over to the shoulder, and the moment we stopped, we heard him shout, "Get off the road". (But we ARE off the road). V pulled the bike to the dirt off the road, and removed his helmet while walking towards the cop car.

"STAY RIGHT THERE" the cop shouted while whispering something in his walkie talkie, pretending to call for back up.
By now, I thought it was best to join V and I started walking towards the cop too. I called out to V to stay away from the cop, while he asked him to stand in front of the car.
After scanning the license inside out, he said, "Where are you from?"
"India"
I thought I heard him say 'shit' under his breath, but then again, I thought I heard, I wasn't sure.
"Do you speak English?"
<No you ******, we don't. We have just been following your hand signs!!!!> "`Yes, we do"
"Listen, I don't know how it happens in India, but here we don't follow"
<So how do you overtake?> "OK...??"
"You were following me"
"No, I wasn't. You signaled me to pass" poor V was so confused.
"I pulled over because I wanted you to pull over" V did a good job at confusing the cop too :D, "but you were speeding"
"No, I wasn't. I wasn't speeding at all. You just said I was following you, so I couldn't be faster than you were". <Sweetheart, you don't argue with a cop> I stared at V, like really stared, those 'shut up now' looks. being married for almost 7 years now, V can't miss reading my eyes, and he immediately shut up.


"I am sorry, we didn't realize that the speed limit was so low" Very unlike me to go ahead and say sorry, but what the hell - this was a cop, remember! "We thought it was still at 55"
"But I wasn't riding at 55" V again, followed by my 'drop dead' stare again!
"The limit here is 35 mph. There are children playing, what if I had braked?....... blah... blah..... 10 minutes of him talking and us nodding"
"Sorry about that, officer"

"SO, where are you guys riding to?".... and another 15 minute conversation where he told us about what to see in the USA and what to avoid. Nice guy :)

PHEW, saved .. and out of the situation without a ticket!
Lesson learnt: Logic doesn't always pay! Sometimes it does help to say sorry and smile a lot, even when you aren't at fault!

Thursday, May 5, 2011

DAY 18, 19: 14th, 15th Apr/2011

Overton, Hurricane, Zion National Park


We left the camping space early in the morning (my definition of early is about 10: 7 am is still midnight!). 
Packing is the morning is always a painful part for us. V does most of the packing (all right, all of the packing, while I stand clear of his way - that's my way of helping him). I do assist him by ensuring that he has a decent breakfast waiting for him, when he is 'almost' done with tearing the tent down and stuffing it in our bags. 
The plan was to reach Zion National Park by day end. But we also knew that it never sticks to the plan, so we were OK with whatever the day had in store for us. That’s the way we had been traveling, looking at the map, and deciding where to head and where to stop. The best trips are when there is no plan.

Just as we were crossing overton, I saw a sign that said ‘Lost City museum’ and I dragged V to it out of curiosity. In my mind i thought of some old big ruins of a civilization that we could never have imagined existed in the times it did. The kind of men and women, what they looked like. The hostile enviromnet they lived in, the monsters they fought for survival. Ok, cut the drama, back to the museum. It was tiny little building shaped like a pueblo (we learnt this word later in the museum), built over the remains of an original pueblo made by the people who inhabited this place some 10,000-12,000 years ago. Now, THAT's what I call history, and it started to interest me now. Finally i guess, I got some perspective to the history of this region, this land.

I have always been fascinated by history, (No that doesn't mean I scored better grades in that subject when I was in school). I loved to dream about how their life styles would have been, what they did, how they did, what their average day looked like, how were women and children places in the society. You can always tell a lot about the society by knowing how the women are treated. It may sound a little feminist as I say it, but I truly do believe in this theory. The progress and survival of any society depends on how well they keep their women. It is strange how humans have evolved over thousands of years, but the basics have remained the same. Women are still the home makers (even if they go out and make their careers). I would love to know how we evolve in another 10,000 years, I doubt if anything will change. I guess it comes from the fact that men cannot multi-task (now don't ask me why, God just didn't give them the ability, he knew they couldn't handle it).  

The riding was fun. I love moving my head around and looking at the sides. Sometimes I overdo it, and V has to remind me to sit straight. I pity him for doing all the riding, he misses all the fun :D 
COWS, I spotted some cows. As Indians, we are used to seeing cows and dogs and horses amongst us. No, not in the house, I meant the roads. They are all over the roads. Its nice having company :D
Here in the US, you don't see people for say 120 miles at a stretch - no car in sight, no shade by the road, no one to look at, just plain endless road. SO the cows got me so excited that I HAD to click a picture. (Just babbling an explanation here, so that you don't think I am losing my mind posting pictures of random animals, phew!) It seemed that my excitement was fairly verbal, 'coz I heard V shouting through his helmet, telling me to stay still on the bike. I guess he feared I would jump off and go hugging one of the animals. 

But then V and I are birds of the same feather. We can get excited an inane things, and get people to wonder what we are up to. Before I could understand what he was up to, he was screeching to a halt.

"What the F*&^ do you think you are doing stopping on the highway" 
<Random hand actions>
"Stop playing dumb charades with me, will you. What do you want?"
<Moving lips through the helmet, and hand action clicking>
"You want me to click a picture? Of what?" I clearly didn't see anything around me that was picture worthy at the moment. The cows were far behind us. 
V gave up by now. He pulled over on a road shoulder, removed his helmet, "Give me the camera" 
And here is what he clicked - This was on the OTHER side of the road. Funny! 

"But we are not entering Arizona, we are leaving Arizona to enter Utah" 
"Yeah but we didn't click one when we entered" it seemed logical to him, though I seemed to miss the point. He made a face that said 'girls are weird, they never understand' and put the camera back, happy with what he had accomplished. "I want to click that board for every state we visit"
"Well, you missed California and Nevada" 
He ignored the sarcasm in my voice and said, "we will make the full loop and go back, we will click it then"
"HUH"

After what seemed like endless riding (I am sure it wasn't that much, just that my bums were hurting), I was almost pleading V to stop for the day. We came across a beautiful town called Hurricane (what a lovely name!!), and it seemed to me like I couldn't miss the opportunity. We hadn't had a shower in two days (Lake Mead doesn't have even the paid showers), and therefore it was fitting that we stay in a motel today. 

We were standing across the Motel 8 reception, bewildered at what we are supposed to say -  greeted by a 8 year old at the reception chair, asking us in a perfect accent "How can I help you today". 
"Well, we were looking for a room for tonight" I tried to stay calm
"Two beds or one bed"
"One is fine, we are a couple" This was getting a little awkward now
"And how would you like to pay for this"
"Credit card" I said, while I wanted to REALLY ask him - can we PLEASE talk to an adult, maybe... if you don't mind that is. 
"That would be $50 plus tax"
I couldn't refrain myself by now. "Do you like, own this place?"
"My dad does" he was smooth like hell
"And do you run this"
"No, my dad is sleeping"
THANK YOU. I would have fainted if you hadn't said that.

After dumping the luggage and a quick shower we realized that we still had some time at hand for the day (<puppy face> it was only 230 in the afternoon). We stepped out to look at Zion. 
V had been telling me all morning how his ADV friends said it was a beauty, even when less popular than the bigger ones. It was only 20 miles from Hurricane and I was visibly much less tired after the bath, so what the hell. 

If the road from Hurricane to Zion was anything to go now, I could guess that the park would be beautiful. 
We checked at the camp site to see if there was anything available for us. As we had suspected, no luck. But we did realize that if we wanted a place, we should be there the next morning. 
This again was something that was in contrast to the pattern you would have in India. Back home, if we wanted to go anywhere, we would typically reach there in the evenings, when we had roamed around and it was time for us to relax. But here, we were learning the hard way that if you wanted a place to stay, you have to be there in the mornings, put up your camp and then head out for the day. It is always interesting to note the differences between two societies and how people behave/react. People-observing has always been my hobby, and I take pride in the fact that I read them very well. (My favorite pass-time is to sit by the camp site by the fire and look around at everyone who passes by and then try to imagine what (s)he would be like, but more on that later). 

Zion was every bit as beautiful (and cold) as I had imagined. We parked  the bike and took the shuttle to go around the park. This was the 1st park where I saw the shuttle (not that I had been to many.. but in my limited knowledge this was still the 1st). It was a much more convenient and less polluting way of getting people around the park. (+10 to the government for this one). We used the afternoon and evening getting on and off the shuttle bus. 
"Lt's go for a trail" this was V's brilliant idea. Wonder why he thought that I would want to go walking. But he is a baby, he always comes up with these sweet ideas thinking I would like it. Muah :D 

"OK, let's do it. Which one is the shortest?" I wanted to keep the exercise to the minimum :) 
"The weeping rock" We choose the shorted one, which said 1.4 miles round trip, and started off. 
contrary to what I had thought before we started, I actually liked this. Walking along the nature, with so much beauty around you. It was soothing. 

The read signs that said, when the water is half gone, its time to return. LOL, really? All these warnings for a 1.4 miles round trip? Not bad! 

We continued walking for a while, when I spotted a deer. WOW, never seen one in my life so close, and so fearless. It seemed oblivious to our existence, and even if he did see us, he didn't care.   
We clicked a few good shots and were pleased with ourselves. 
This trail thing was good, I was liking it. But 30 minutes down the trail, I was huffing and puffing. 
"Isn't it a mile already" It seemed like we had been walking for ages. 
"Don't know, guess not. It said this was an easy trail" V was his indifferent self. 
"But I am sure we have walked much more than a mile"
"Maybe we are nearing the end of it" tried to keep me going. 

"This is it. I quit. We have been walking for over an hour" I was exasperated by now. 
"Just a little more, I am sure it's towards the end of it" 
The trail was getting steeper and I felt like i was climbing a mountain.
"I refuse to go any further. I am dying, and this doesn't seem to end" I sat down. 
"OK, I will go and check how much more is it" V was also getting restless. 
Man, I was impressed. I couldn't finish the trail that was the easiest in the US. I didn't know what was I to derive out of it. Maybe the age was catching up with me, however much I denied the fact. <Sad face>

V went on to check while I stayed back looking at the world around me. It was beautiful and I loved to be here. It felt nice to be without my laptop and my blackberry and for once not worrying about a meeting or a presentation or a deadline. It just felt nice to look at something and not think about anything. Just nice, nothing else.

V came back and announced that he couldn't see the end of the trail, and without saying, I turned to go down.
"It's OK, we don't always have to finish the trail" he consoled me
"You won't tell anyone, will you?"
"No, I won't. You can always say you finished the trail."

We sprinted our way back. it's always easier coming down the hill, and I think the return is the best part of the trail.
Finally on the trail head, I went to the board to re-check if this was really only 1.4 miles. It sure felt much more than that. What I read put all the pieced together.
"Baby, do you know how much we walked?" I asked V as he came and stood next to me. "The trail we were on, was 12 miles, and it is listed as 'strenuous'"
"Really? how come? It said 'easy' on the guide"
"Well, the easy one is in the other direction" and we both giggled our hearts out. people gave us funny glances, I am sure no one else understood what was so funny, but we didn't have to tell anyone.

This was enough adventure for one day, and we had to head back now. Back to the motel and sleep like dead men!

The next day we reached the park with our luggage at 11, only to realize that the camp sites were sold out that morning by 10. Damn! What the hell. It's a Friday people, don't you have work to attend or what!

Let's go to the other campground and try our luck. I knew this was a crazy idea, but what the hell, it was worth a shot. A board greeted us at the entrance - "Pls do not enter without reservation, campground full".
THANK YOU.
But V wouldn't go back without talking to ranger. And I thank him for that! We did manage to get one last site, that had just become available due to a cancellation. <Wide Grin>

We set up our camp, and whiled away the morning lazily eating and relaxing. The trail from the previous day was still heavy on our legs.
By noon, I was so excited about the trail, that I wanted to do one again.

V claimed that he can never understand me, but then no one does, so why bother.

I wanted to do the 'river-side trail' which was listed as a moderate hike, and after the earlier one, it seemed easy.

we packed up our bag - a water bottle, some energy bars, some peanuts, an apple and one orange - and we were good to do. The river side trail lived up to its name, it was pretty and along with river. I would just leave that story telling to the pictures. Nothing better than that.